My friend and I were sitting in a garden bistro finishing our lunch on one of the very warm summer days we’ve been having. After our virtuous salad and iced tea lunches, we eagerly eyed the dessert menu. Everything sounded decadent, but somehow too heavy for this time of year: the French silk pie, the cheese cake, even the dense flourless chocolate cake didn’t hit the right note. Then we almost said in unison—“Oh, that lemon chiffon pie sounds perfect, that’s what I’m having!” Since we both wanted the same thing, we decided to split one. After finishing every crumb of my half and licking the fork clean, I wished we hadn’t.
Chiffon pie uses two of the major workhorses of the summer kitchen: lemon and gelatin. I’ve written flowery tributes to the lemon before, but it’s hard to over-do it. The lowly lemon has so many uses it would take a two-page list to describe them all—but as a summer flavor-booster, it can’t be beat. Plus, in the season of plentiful fruits, it has the ability to bring out the best taste of other fruits.
Think lemon wedges in your iced tea or soda, lemon on your grilled fish, lemon in your salad dressing, lemon ice (Culver’s has one to die for), and of course, lemonade. Lemon can spike up marinades and even freshen up your kitchen. But nowhere is it more beautifully paired than with gelatin.
Gelatin has gotten a bad rap in recent years. All the “Jell-o” salads and desserts that our mothers and grandmothers made just went out of fashion and became somewhat laughable in sophisticated food circles. That’s too bad in a way, because Jell-o salads are easy to make, easy to transport, and make a hit at pot-lucks (probably because everyone still likes them)—plus they’re a great vehicle for getting children to eat lots of fruits and vegetables.
Unflavored gelatin used in cooking is still popular, however, and there are many uses for gelatin that many people don’t know. Around our inn, for instance, we make a lot of whipped cream for our dessert course. I like to use real cream but, as you may know, leftover whipped cream doesn’t store well. Additionally, I have a wonderful tool with a plunger, a plastic cylindrical holder and decorator tips in which you can store whipped cream or frosting and cover the leftover with a cap so you can refrigerate it and it will be at the ready. Except, whipped cream separates and gets watery. Gelatin to the rescue. The first time I read this tip and tried it, I was afraid that the whipped cream would seem “jello-y” and perhaps lumpy, since you don’t have to soften the gelatin first. Nope! It was perfect. Just sprinkle about ¼ tsp. per cup of whipping cream over the cream and whip as usual.
The pie at the restaurant my friend and I ate was light and airy, even billowy (think chiffon) and refreshingly tart while still satisfying the sweet tooth urge at the end of the meal. This pie-of-the-month for July is the perfect ending to any meal.
If you’ve never made a chiffon pie before, here are some tips for the technique that will ensure a perfect pie.
The first step is to soften the gelatin in cold water by sprinkling it over the water and letting it sit for about 10 minutes. This mixture can be added to any hot liquid in your recipe and thoroughly dissolved. Then the mixture needs to be chilled until it mounds slightly when dropped from a spoon. Test frequently. Then beat egg whites until they form glistening, stiff peaks and fold them into the gelatinizied filling. If this mixture mounds, spoon it into the crust; if it doesn’t, chill it briefly to the mounding stage. The secret to a perfect, light and fluffy chiffon pie is not to let the gelatin mixture get too firm before folding in egg whites and whipped cream, if used. Chill pie until firm before cutting.
Lemon Chiffon Pie
Baked 9” pie shell
1 envelope unflavored gelatin
¼ cup cold water
4 eggs, separated
½ cup lemon juice
3 Tbsp. orange juice
¾ cup sugar
¼ tsp. salt
1 tsp. grated lemon peel
2/3 cup sugar
2/3 cup heavy cream
Soften gelatin in water. In top of double boiler, beat egg yolks until thick and lemon-colored. Add juices and mix well. Stir in sugar and salt. Cook over hot (not boiling) water until slightly thickened (about 10 minutes). Remove from heat; stir in lemon peel and gelatin. Chill until mixture begins to set (about 1 hour—but be careful, read directions above). Beat until smooth. Beat egg whites until frothy. Gradually add 2/3 cup sugar, beating until glossy peaks are formed. Whip cream and fold into egg whites. Fold into thickened lemon mixture. Spoon into cool pie shell. Refrigerate several hours before serving.
Chiffon pie uses two of the major workhorses of the summer kitchen: lemon and gelatin. I’ve written flowery tributes to the lemon before, but it’s hard to over-do it. The lowly lemon has so many uses it would take a two-page list to describe them all—but as a summer flavor-booster, it can’t be beat. Plus, in the season of plentiful fruits, it has the ability to bring out the best taste of other fruits.
Think lemon wedges in your iced tea or soda, lemon on your grilled fish, lemon in your salad dressing, lemon ice (Culver’s has one to die for), and of course, lemonade. Lemon can spike up marinades and even freshen up your kitchen. But nowhere is it more beautifully paired than with gelatin.
Gelatin has gotten a bad rap in recent years. All the “Jell-o” salads and desserts that our mothers and grandmothers made just went out of fashion and became somewhat laughable in sophisticated food circles. That’s too bad in a way, because Jell-o salads are easy to make, easy to transport, and make a hit at pot-lucks (probably because everyone still likes them)—plus they’re a great vehicle for getting children to eat lots of fruits and vegetables.
Unflavored gelatin used in cooking is still popular, however, and there are many uses for gelatin that many people don’t know. Around our inn, for instance, we make a lot of whipped cream for our dessert course. I like to use real cream but, as you may know, leftover whipped cream doesn’t store well. Additionally, I have a wonderful tool with a plunger, a plastic cylindrical holder and decorator tips in which you can store whipped cream or frosting and cover the leftover with a cap so you can refrigerate it and it will be at the ready. Except, whipped cream separates and gets watery. Gelatin to the rescue. The first time I read this tip and tried it, I was afraid that the whipped cream would seem “jello-y” and perhaps lumpy, since you don’t have to soften the gelatin first. Nope! It was perfect. Just sprinkle about ¼ tsp. per cup of whipping cream over the cream and whip as usual.
The pie at the restaurant my friend and I ate was light and airy, even billowy (think chiffon) and refreshingly tart while still satisfying the sweet tooth urge at the end of the meal. This pie-of-the-month for July is the perfect ending to any meal.
If you’ve never made a chiffon pie before, here are some tips for the technique that will ensure a perfect pie.
The first step is to soften the gelatin in cold water by sprinkling it over the water and letting it sit for about 10 minutes. This mixture can be added to any hot liquid in your recipe and thoroughly dissolved. Then the mixture needs to be chilled until it mounds slightly when dropped from a spoon. Test frequently. Then beat egg whites until they form glistening, stiff peaks and fold them into the gelatinizied filling. If this mixture mounds, spoon it into the crust; if it doesn’t, chill it briefly to the mounding stage. The secret to a perfect, light and fluffy chiffon pie is not to let the gelatin mixture get too firm before folding in egg whites and whipped cream, if used. Chill pie until firm before cutting.
Lemon Chiffon Pie
Baked 9” pie shell
1 envelope unflavored gelatin
¼ cup cold water
4 eggs, separated
½ cup lemon juice
3 Tbsp. orange juice
¾ cup sugar
¼ tsp. salt
1 tsp. grated lemon peel
2/3 cup sugar
2/3 cup heavy cream
Soften gelatin in water. In top of double boiler, beat egg yolks until thick and lemon-colored. Add juices and mix well. Stir in sugar and salt. Cook over hot (not boiling) water until slightly thickened (about 10 minutes). Remove from heat; stir in lemon peel and gelatin. Chill until mixture begins to set (about 1 hour—but be careful, read directions above). Beat until smooth. Beat egg whites until frothy. Gradually add 2/3 cup sugar, beating until glossy peaks are formed. Whip cream and fold into egg whites. Fold into thickened lemon mixture. Spoon into cool pie shell. Refrigerate several hours before serving.
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