Herbs

How would you define “herbs?” Most people think of them as mainly plants used in cooking. But historically herbs have been even more important as medicinal and aromatic plants. Herbs run the botanical gamut from trees to shrubs and can be biennials, annuals or perennials. Some are used for their foliage and flowers, others for their seeds and roots and some for all four.

The first documented account of herbs appeared about 2000 B.C. in Babylon. Well-known herbs such as bay leaves, thyme, caraway seeds and coriander were among the medicinal herbs mentioned along with instructions for preparing and administering cures. The Egyptians imported herbs, spices and aromatic oils from Babylon and India. Among them were anise, caraway, fenugreek, opium, thyme and saffron and they were used for food, medicines, cosmetics, perfumes, dyes, disinfectants and embalming.

Herbs have, unfortunately, been largely ignored in more recent history. But with the rebirth of home gardens and the interest in home cooking, herb gardens are popping up everywhere. One of the greatest things about growing herbs is that you can do it
anywhere. The smallest plot, container, or rock garden is perfect. You can plant them outdoors in the spring and bring most of them inside for the winter in kitchen window containers. Most of them are very easy to grow, needing only sunshine, protection from cold winds and water. All plants naturally benefit from weeding and feeding, but even neglected, most herbs will thrive.

I want my herbs to be close to my kitchen and there are quite a few that I use consistently so I always plant basil, rosemary, sage, thyme, oregano, tarragon (French), spearmint, parsley, cilantro, chives and dill. I plant some of them in a small garden at the base of my porch steps leading from my kitchen and any that are fussy about sun or shade in a large strawberry pot that can be moved around during the day. I have never utilized the potential that I discovered while researching this column, however. It will have to be one of my next projects.

Medicinal and cosmetic uses intrigue me and also the use of herbs for decorating and making fragrances. I have a wonderful book, The Herb Book, by Arabella Boxer and Phillipa Back, that is a great resource for defining herbs botanically as well as explaining their medicinal uses. Another, more recent book in my collection is fantastic for describing gardening and decorating possibilities—A Handful of Herbs, by Barbara Segall, Louise Pickford and Rose Hammick. Both have recipes for using herbs in cooking.

It’s fun to give food gifts to friends for Christmas and other occasions and the section in A Handful of Herbs that describes vinegars, dressings, oils and butters is a goldmine. Oils are a little unusual and can be used to make so many things—salad dressings, sauces and just for sautéing.

Rosemary, Garlic and Pepper Oil (Makes about 2 ½ cups)

4 sprigs of rosemary
2 garlic cloves, sliced
1 Tbsp. black peppercorns, lightly crushed
2 1/1 cups extra virgin olive oil

Put the rosemary, sliced garlic and peppercorns into a small saucepan with the olive oil. Heat gently until just boiling and simmer for 1 minute. Let cool, then infuse overnight. The following day strain the infused oil into a clean bottle and add a sprig of rosemary and a few whole black peppercorns. If giving as a gift, include suggestions for use: use as a dip for focaccia or ciabatta, or trickle it over a freshly baked pizza.

Most people are somewhat familiar with Béarnaise sauce—which is one of my very favorites. The predominant flavor is from the French tarragon. Be sure you use genuine French tarragon; there is another variety sold but it is very inferior in flavor. Since I like that flavor so much, this recipe caught my eye and turned out to be delicious. This would make a delightful and sophisticated starter for a dinner party.

Tarragon Soup

6 sprigs French tarragon
3 ¾ cups strong chicken stock
2 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp. flour
1 egg yolk
¼ cup light cream
1 ½ Tbsp. lemon juice
Sea salt and black pepper

Pick most of the best leaves off the tarragon sprigs and set aside. Heat the stock and add the stalks with the remaining leaves. Bring to boiling point, then cover the pan and remove from the heat for 20 minutes. Melt the butter in a pan, add the flour and stir until blended to a smooth paste. Pour on the stock through a sieve and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring all the time. When smooth and blended, beat the egg yolk in a bowl with the cream and stir in a few spoonfuls of the hot soup. Return the egg mixture to the pan and stir until amalgamated, without allowing it to boil. Add the lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Chop the reserved tarragon leaves and scatter over the top. Stand for a few minutes before serving.