Many Kinds of Rice

When I started cooking, there were only two kinds of rice available at the grocery store; white long grain and white short grain. Today there are a great many varieties of rice available at most stores and, if you hunt a little, many more: long, short, round-grain, red, brown, blue, purple, black or ivory. Others have a perfume or flavor that is distinct such as Basmati and Jasmine.

Rice is one of the most important food grains in the world and is the staple food of millions of people. Cultivated rice, oryza sativa, has been known in India, where it is supposed to have originated, since about 3,000 B.C. Yet, until quite recently, Americans have not really explored the myriad possibilities of rice.

Risotto, the great Italian classic, is one of the most interesting and delicious ways to serve rice, but it does usually require a great deal of attention while cooking. The traditional way to cook risotto is to add the liquid to the rice a little at a time until each addition is absorbed, stirring all the while. This method is the way to the creamy texture that is what makes the dish so delicious.

I hate to admit that I have often foregone making risotto just because of the tedious preparation required so I was happily surprised to find an article in the May/June, 2008 issue of Cook’s Illustrated magazine that tested and approved a method in which they add about half the broth (3 cups) all at once at the beginning. That sounded like something I might like, so I gave their feature recipe, Spring Vegetable Risotto, a try. I think it’s great and plan to serve it at my upcoming dinner party.

Spring Vegetable Risotto with Gremolata

Gremolata

2 Tbsp. minced fresh parsley leaves, stems reserved
2 Tbsp. minced fresh mint leaves, stems reserved
½ tsp. finely grated zest from 1 lemon

Risotto

1 pound asparagus, tough ends snapped off and reserved, spears cut on bias into ½-inch-thick pieces
2 medium leeks, white and light green parts halved lengthwise, washed, and sliced thin (about 4 cups), 2 cups roughly chopped greens reserved
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
3 cups water
5 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Table salt and ground black pepper
½ cup frozen peas
2 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
1 ½ cups Arborio rice
1 cup dry white wine
1 ½ ounces grated Parmesan cheese (about ¾ cup), plus extra for serving
2 tsps. Juice from 1 lemon

For the gremolata: combine ingredients in small bowl and set aside.

For the Risotto: Chop tough asparagus ends and leek greens into rough ½-inch pieces. Bring chopped vegetables, reserved parsley and mint stems, broth and water to boil in large saucepan over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, partially cover and simmer 20 minutes. Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer into medium bowl, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Return strained broth to saucepan; cover and set over low heat to keep broth warm. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in large Dutch oven over medium heat. When foaming subsides, add asparagus spears, pinch of salt and pepper to taste. Cook, stirring occasionally, until asparagus is crisp-tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Add peas and continue to cook 1 minute. Transfer vegetables to plate and set aside. Melt 3 Tbsp. butter in now-empty Dutch oven over medium heat. When foaming subsides, add leeks, garlic, ½ tsp. salt and ½ tsp. pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until leeks are softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring frequently, until grains are translucent around edges, about 3 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring frequently, until fully absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. When wine is fully absorbed, add 3 cups hot broth to rice. Simmer, stirring every 3 to 4 minutes until liquid is absorbed and bottom of pan is almost dry, about 12 minutes. Stir in about ½ cup hot broth and cook, stirring constantly, until absorbed, about 3 minutes, repeat with additional broth 3 or 4 times until rice is al dente. Off heat, stir in remaining tablespoon butter, Parmesan and lemon juice; gently fold in asparagus and peas. If desired, add up to ¼ cup additional hot broth to loosen texture of risotto. Serve immediately, sprinkling each serving with gremolata and passing Parmesan separately.

I have been a lover of sweet rice since I was a little girl and my grandma let me have plain, leftover, white rice for breakfast. She would pour half and half over it and warm it up—then serve it with sugar and more half and half like a hot cereal—delicious!

Here’s a basic recipe for anyone who shares my taste for sweet rice:

Basic Rice Pudding

Preheat oven to 300 degrees F. Spray a 1 1/2-quart baking dish with vegetable spray. Place ¼ cup of short-grain or Arborio rice, 2 Tbsp. sugar, 3 ¾ cups milk and 1 tsp. vanilla in the dish. Place in oven and bake for 3 hours. If you wish to make the pudding richer, beat in 2 egg yolks 30 minutes before the end of the cooking time. When pudding is removed from oven, sprinkle the top of the pudding with 1 Tbsp. sugar-cinnamon mixture and place under a hot broiler for 1 minute to glaze.