April is the Month of Beginnings

April is the month of beginnings; its name is derived from the Latin aperire, meaning to open. April openings include the gardening season, the spring clothing season, the season of the first spring vegetables (albeit, shipped-in to Minnesota) and, of course, baseball.

Speaking of shipped in foods, however, aside from asparagus and California strawberries, the market also includes a new crop of carrots and pineapples. This month these two foods should be plentiful in the market and also a good value. Not only are they plentiful and cheap (relatively speaking) but they are at their peak of flavor.

All winter we buy carrots that are large, hairy, flabby, cracked and tasteless. Now, at last, the carrots are bright orange, smooth, firm, clean, crisp, straight with long, tender roots. People who claim not to like carrots would likely change their minds if new carrots were the only ones they knew.

Carrots belong to the roots and tubers family which also includes beets, celeriac, Jerusalem artichokes, parsnips, potatoes, rutabagas, salsify, sweet potatoes and turnips. Carrots are obviously one of the more common of these and also one of the most nutritious. Beta carotene, a potent form of vitamin A, gave carrots their name. Our daughter, Elizabeth, loved carrots so much when she was a baby, that her fingertips and nose actually turned yellow from eating so many.

I have had more trouble feeding the other children carrots, however, as they are not always popular. I came up with a recipe that was truly loved by the whole family—and my husband and I still enjoy frequently—Golden Mashed Potatoes.

Golden Mashed Potatoes (serves 4)

4 medium potatoes
4 medium carrots
1 tsp. salt
2 Tbsp half and half
2/3 cup grated Cheddar cheese

Cut potatoes and carrots into one-inch chunks and cover with salted cold water in a medium saucepan. Cover and cook about 30 minutes or until tender. Drain and add half and half; mash. Turn into a heat proof serving dish and sprinkle with grated cheese. Cover and place in 350 degree oven for 10 minutes or until cheese is melted.

Here’s a recipe that tastes best with the first new carrots of spring.

Carrots ‘n Cream (serves 4) (adapted from Le Cuisinier Europeen by Jules Breteuil)

1 lb. carrots, whole if small or julienned if larger
¼ cup water
1 Tbsp. butter
Salt and pepper
2 Tbsp. fresh parsley, minced fine
½ cup heavy cream
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten

Put carrots, water and butter in a saucepan. Season with salt and pepper and add parsley. Cook, uncovered over low heat. After 10 minutes, stir in the cream. Continue to cook very gently until they are tender. Remove the pan from the heat, stir a spoonful of the hot sauce into the egg yolks and add this mixture to the pan. Mix thoroughly and reheat the carrots for a moment. Do not boil. Serve immediately.

The Time-Life series called The Good Cook describes pineapples as follows:

Although most fruits can be grouped by shared traits, a few defy labels. The most familiar of these is the pineapple, which is not one fruit but many, formed by the fusion of about 100 separate flowers that are discernible as “eyes” on its thorny skin and on its yellow flesh. The pineapple is juicy and sharply sweet—a perfect dessert because it contains the enzyme bromelin, which aids digestion.

Choosing a ripe pineapple is not as easy as it might seem, simply because there are so many different ways: heavily fragrant, yielding slightly to gentle pressure at the base, top center leaves pull out easily (this one is often disputed, but I swear by it), distinct crevices surrounding each section and being heavy for its size, are among them.

Here is an old-time dessert, a 19th Century American classic that is a perfect way to enjoy pineapple.

Pineapple Ambrosia (adapted from Robert Ackart’s, Fruits In Cooking)

Serves 6

1 large pineapple, peeled, quartered, cored and coarsely grated
1 cup sugar
4 eggs, 2 left whole, the yolks of 2 separated from the whites
Salt
2 cups milk, scalded and partially cooled
1 tsp. vanilla extract

In a soufflé dish, combine pineapple with ½ cup sugar and chill for two hours. In top of a double boiler, beat together the whole eggs, the two extra yolks, ¼ cup of remaining sugar and a little salt. Set over simmering water and gradually stir in the milk. Stirring constantly, cook the custard until it thickens and coats a spoon—about 3 minutes. Allow custard to cool, then stir in vanilla. Pour the custard over the chilled pineapple. Beat the two remaining egg whites until they are frothy; gradually add the remaining ¼ cup of sugar and beat the whites until stiff. Spread this meringue over the dessert and bake it in a preheated 425 degree oven for five minutes, or until the top is golden. Chill the dessert well before serving.