Saturday, April 30, 2011

Delicious Asparagus

I love asparagus and I’m always overjoyed when the new spring crop comes to the market but I’m certainly not alone in this passion. In fact the city of Stockton, California celebrates an Asparagus Festival the last weekend of April for a two-day event each year. My brother graduated from the University of the Pacific in Stockton and although I have been there many times, I never heard about the festival until I acquired a cookbook written about it.


The book gives more information about asparagus than I have ever imagined, much less known. Some of the highlights given on the prestigious history of this vegetable (one of the oldest known to mankind) are that the Arabs sprinkled asparagus with spices to stimulate the senses; Brillat-Savarin told of dreams being provoked by asparagus; Egyptians offered it to their gods, and a recipe using asparagus was found in the ruins of Pompeii.

Stockton considers itself the asparagus capital of the world and the focal point of the festival is known as asparagus alley. It features six gourmet asparagus dishes which are prepared under two big-top tents. The dishes were selected from among the favorite recipes submitted to the committee. Much thought and work is given to the presentation of these six dishes and the 1986 winners are in the book.

The book also includes a lot of tips which I found very helpful. Freezing is very successful; wash thoroughly, trim off the tough ends, leave spears whole or cut into 2-inch lengths. Sort according to stalk thickness; then blanch in boiling water for 3 minutes. Immediately plunge into ice water to stop the cooking process; drain well. Pack in freezer plastic bags or rigid containers. Seal, label and freeze. Alternatively, you can place washed spears or pieces on a cookie sheet, separated from each other. Freeze. When frozen, place desired number of spears or pieces in plastic bags for serving sizes, working quickly so asparagus does not thaw. Store in freezer.

When preparing asparagus, first wash very well. Sand and grit do get between the fronds, so a second washing may be necessary. Break or cut spears at the tender part and reserve the ends for puree, soups or salads. Cook quickly in water in a skillet (lying flat) until tender-crisp. The time varies according to the age and size of the asparagus but I have found that 9-12 minutes is about right. Stop the cooking by draining immediately before dressing (with butter or other sauce) and serve hot. Or, plunge into ice bath and refrigerate to serve cold in salads or as a delicious side with mayonnaise. Asparagus can be steamed, microwaved and stir-fried as well as boiled.

Because I am always interested in the nutritive value of foods that we are eating, I have included some of the information about asparagus: asparagus is low in salt (3 ½ ounces of boiled and drained asparagus contains 1.0 mg sodium) and calories. There are only four calories per spear or 66 calories per pound. Asparagus is a good source of potassium, magnesium, fiber, calcium, vitamin A, and Vitamin C. Additionally, asparagus is one of the few foods that contains a large amount of rutin, which is important for keeping the capillary walls pliable.

My card club meets at my house Monday and soup is our traditional lunch entrée. I decided to give the bisque from the 1986 Stockton Asparagus Festival, asparagus alley recipe a try. It turned out beautifully (I made it ahead and froze it). Here is the recipe:

Asparagus Bisque

1 stick butter
¾ cup flour
2 quarts whole milk
1 cup chicken stock
1 tsp. white pepper
1 tsp. salt (or more, depending on the saltiness of the stock)
1 bay leaf
3 cups cleaned and cooked asparagus, tips and center only, (cut into ½-inch pieces)
Instant potatoes (use to thicken bisque if needed)

Roux: In stockpot, melt butter; add flour, stirring constantly so mixture doesn’t burn. Add 1 quart milk slowly to roux mixture, stirring constantly. When combined and thickened, add remaining milk and chicken stock. Add bay leaf, white pepper and salt. Add asparagus. Cook soup slowly for 1 hour.

To serve, top bisque with large sourdough croutons and a dollop of sour cream. Sprinkle with dill weed. Makes 1 gallon.

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