What's Not To Like About Lemons?

The lemon has an undeserved bad name. Even the dictionary, after stating its botanical definition as an acidy, yellow, citrus fruit, gives as its second definition: “something unsatisfactory; a dud.” In the realm of cooking, however, it is better than satisfactory and anything but a dud.

What’s not to like about lemons? They are sunny, bright, fresh, smell wonderful, impart a wonderful tang to almost every food they are mingled with, condition yeast doughs to improve their texture, can be used to take away foul odors, clean and bleach and are cheap and plentiful. Wow, doesn’t seem dud-like to me. Of course, they are sour. But that is just one more of their virtues, as far as I’m concerned. Mixed with a sweetener, lemon is one of the world’s great flavors.

But did you know that lemon can be added, in some form, to almost every dish you cook? You can use it as a flavor intensifier--like salt or msg--but no side effects. I use them so frequently that I have them on hand all the time, but when I make my homemade lemon curd (a favorite at the inn), I grate all the lemons before juicing and freeze the lemon zest along with any extra juice, just in case I run out. I keep a cut lemon in a baggie in the refrigerator and using a small tea-strainer to keep out seeds, squeeze a teaspoon or so into water for sweet corn, all fish dishes, all sauces, yeast doughs, almost any food you name.

The lemon tree has been around for about four thousand years. It originated in India and found its way to the Mediterranean Region, where it flourished due to perfect climate conditions. Christopher Columbus brought seeds to the Americas and they have been an essential part of our cuisine ever since. The lemon’s restorative power is legend; it was thought to be an antidote to poisoning, a cosmetic to fade freckles, whiten teeth and fingernails, freshen breath and redden lips. It is actually a nutritional marvel. We are all familiar with its great supply of Vitamin C, but it supplies fiber, potassium and vitamins A and B as well.

To choose lemons, look for firm, thin, fine-textured skin and a bright yellow color. Greenish lemons are not mature and will be too acid. Pick heavy fruit, it indicates juiciness. Most of our lemons are “Eureka” or “Lisbon” varieties. The “Meyer” lemon is sweeter and may actually be an orange-lemon hybrid. They are not available everywhere.

Try making your own lemon curd. It is really easy, much cheaper than the grocery store variety, and an extremely versatile thing to have on hand. Besides serving with scones, or muffins, or any breakfast bread, try folding whipped cream into lemon curd and filling pie shells. Topped with more whipped cream that is a spectacular and simple dessert. Garnish with candied lemon peel or slices.

Lemon Curd

6 egg yolks, lightly beaten
1 cup sugar
One-half cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
One stick butter, cut into small pieces
One tablespoon grated lemon zest

Strain the egg yolks through a sieve into a nonreactive pan over low heat. Stir in the sugar and lemon juice and cook, stirring constantly, for about 12 minutes until thickened and smooth. Do not let mixture boil.

Remove from heat and whisk until slightly cooled. Stir in butter, a piece at a time until melted and smooth. Add the zest. Pour into hot, sterilized jars, cover tightly and refrigerate until ready to use. Makes one pint.

A favorite lemon recipe of mine, served frequently at Candlelight Inn, is the following pudding-cake. It makes its own sauce, with a cake-like top, is delicious served warm with whipped cream, or cold with a blackberry sauce and a few whole blackberries for garnish. Dusted with powdered sugar, it’s spectacular.

Lemon Pudding Cake

2 eggs, separated
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
One-fourth cup lemon juice
Two-thirds cup milk
1 cup sugar
One-half cup flour
One-fourth teaspoon salt

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Beat egg whites until stiff peaks form; set aside. Beat egg yolks. Blend in lemon peel, juice and milk. Add sugar, flour and salt; beat until smooth. Fold into whites. Pour into ungreased 1-quart casserole or 10 small (5-oz) ramekins. Place baking dishes in a pan of 1-inch deep very hot water. Bake 45 to 50 minutes.

Back in the ‘60’s, Peter, Paul and Mary sang about lemons in the Lemon Tree Song:

“Lemon tree very pretty
And the lemon flower is sweet,
But the fruit of the poor lemon
Is impossible to eat.”

I disagree.