Special Easter Breads

Easter and Passover are the last big holy days until fall; at least that involve special feasts and food preparation. Besides eggs, ham or lamb and asparagus, the other category of foods we associate with Easter is breads. Every ethnic group seems to have a special bread to bake at Easter.


The Greeks and the Russians really do this category proud. The Greek tradition has Easter as a more prominent holiday than Christmas, which of course, is opposite of the Northern European way; there are more of us in the Midwest that put our best efforts into Christmas (as in the hundreds of delicious Scandinavian butter cookies) leaving Easter as mostly colored eggs and a nice brunch or dinner.

I decided to look at all the breads of the Eastern European and Southern Mediterranean areas baked for Easter and it was amazing. Ukrainians have a specialty called Paska (or sometimes kulich—then paska will be a cheese mixture baked in a mold and served with the kulich) baked in tall, cylindrical cans (like coffee cans). This bread takes a long, long kneading time and a special cooling done on a pillow. “The paska will be very soft. Place a pillow on your kitchen counter; then remove the cans from the oven, using both hands. Place each can over the pillow with the opening of the can facing away from you. Gently let the paska slide out onto the pillow, shaking the can to get it started. Every minute turn the paska from side to side with your hands. Do again and again until it is cooler. Leave it on the pillow, turning it once in a while until it is completely cool.”—from Valentina’s Ukrainian Kitchen

The Greek bread for Easter, tsoureki, is a beautiful, braided affair with red-dyed eggs baked right into it. These eggs, having been boiled and then baked, are not eaten, but used for a favorite family game in which everyone grasps one of the red eggs tightly in his hand with the point showing. Each tries to crack the other’s egg. The winner is the lucky one who successfully escapes having his egg cracked.

The Italians, not to be left out in the culinary field, have a lovely bread called Creska in northern Italy. This is a savory rather than sweet bread, using Parmesan cheese, of course.

With all the Easter morning breads, there was only one Good Friday bread that I found in my search: hot cross buns. Most of us are familiar with these British offerings, but perhaps not the tradition surrounding them.

Good Friday comes this month, the old woman runs

With one-a-penny, two-a-penny, hot cross buns,

Whose virtue is, if you believe what’s said,

They’ll not grow moldy like common bread.

--Old English Folk Chant

By the early part of the eighteenth century the Hot Cross Bun was traditional Good Friday eating throughout England. Until lately, in England, they were available only on Good Friday, but now are sold throughout the Lenten season. There are variations on the recipes I found, but all include currants or raisins and candied fruit peel. Here’s one I liked for you to try.

Hot Cross Buns

1 cup scalded milk (can use microwave) 4 cups flour
One-half cup butter (1 stick) One-half teaspoon salt
One-half cup sugar 1 cup currants or raisins
1 pkg. dry yeast (dissolved in one-fourth One-fourth cup candied fruit peels
cup warm water) One-half teaspoon ground allspice
1 large egg

Pour the scalded milk over the butter and sugar and stir to dissolve the butter and sugar. Let cool to lukewarm. Add the dissolved yeast and the egg and blend well. Add the flour and salt gradually, reserving a small amount of flour to dust the fruits. Add the floured fruits and the allspice to the dough and knead in thoroughly. (I use the dough hook on my stand-mixer). Place in a buttered bowl, cover, and let rise until doubled. Punch the dough down and turn it out onto a floured board. Shape dough into 15 buns and place on sprayed cookie sheets. Cover and let rise for 30 minutes, then very carefully press the shape of a cross into each bun, using a spatula or the back of a knife. Bake at 375 degrees for 20 minutes, then reduce heat to 350 degrees and continue baking until buns are browned and done, about 10 to 15 minutes longer. Frost either the entire bun or just the shape of the cross.

Frosting: Beat 1 egg white until stiff, adding powdered sugar gradually until mixture is thick. Flavor with 1 teaspoon lemon juice or vanilla extract or one-quarter teaspoon almond extract. If frosting thins, add more powdered sugar.