Spring Is Here...sort of

Yesterday was the vernal equinox, better known as the first day of spring. Today is the feast day of St. Benedict born c480 AD; the birthday of Johann Sebastian Bach, born in 1685; Back Badge Day, based on the Battle of Alexandria on which veterans of that battle wore badges on the back and front of their caps and, lastly, Earth Day.


On the food scene, I like the spring theme. We are so ready—this year especially—that I just can’t help myself from succumbing to the temptations of the market. The asparagus is still expensive, the rhubarb is just appearing, and strawberries aren’t at their best yet, but I am still putting together meals with these beautiful beguiling harbingers of spring.

(All recipes are adapted from Bon Appetit magazines.)

Asparagus is good just quickly steamed and served naked—hot or cold. But if you like to dress things up, try this twist on the typical Hollandaise sauce.

1 pound fresh asparagus, trimmed
2 egg yolks
1 Tbsp. fresh orange juice
½ tsp. grated orange peel
6 Tbsp. butter, melted
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Grated orange peel and halved orange slices for garnish

Cook asparagus in rapidly boiling salted water until tender, 8-11 minutes. Shake dry over high heat in same pan. Combine egg yolks, orange juice and peel in blender and mix well. Heat butter until bubbly. With blender running, gradually add hot butter to yolk mixture in thin stream and mix thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon sauce over asparagus. Garnish with orange peel and slices.

Lamb is one of my favorite meats and it is always a welcome spring treat. This is a doubly festive treatment, since the colors of the peppers will dress up the spring meal, too. This is an Italian dish from the Abruzzi. Start marinating the lamb a day ahead and this dish can be made ahead and reheated very successfully.

6 servings

1 ¾ cups dry white wine
1/3 cup packed fresh oregano, chopped
3 Tbsp olive oil
4 bay leaves, crumbled
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 Tbsp. shredded lemon peel
3 ½ pounds boneless lamb shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
6 Tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 ½ Tbsp. Italian parsley, minced
2 jalapeno chilies, seeded and sliced
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 cup drained canned Italian plum tomatoes, crushed
1 cup chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 red bell peppers, cut into strips
2 yellow bell peppers, cut into strips

Combine first 6 ingredients in large bowl. Add lamb and toss well. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Remove lamb from marinade; reserve marinade. Pat lamb dry. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in Dutch oven, medium-high heat. Add half of lamb and brown well. Remove to platter. Add more oil and brown remaining lamb. Remove to platter. Add onion and parsley to Dutch oven and sauté 3 minutes. Add chilies and sauté until onion begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Mix in minced garlic and reserved marinade. Bring to boil, scraping up browned bits. Return lamb to Dutch oven. Add tomatoes. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until lamb is tender and sauce is thick, but not dry, adding up to 1 cup stock if necessary, about 1 ½ hours. Season with salt and pepper. Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in heavy skillet over high heat. Add bell peppers and sauté until tender. Add to lamb and simmer 10 minutes. Serve hot.

To top off this delicious dinner try this lovely spring dessert:

Strawberry Rhubarb Meringue Tart

Crust

1 ½ cups flour
3 Tbsp sugar
¼ tsp salt
¼ cup butter
¼ cup solid vegetable shortening
3 Tbsp fresh orange juice
1 Tbsp orange liqueur
2 Tbsp sugar

Filling

4 cups ½-inch pieces rhubarb (about 1 ½ pounds)
1 pint strawberries, halved
1 ½ cups sugar
¼ cup quick-cooking tapioca
4 tsp. grated orange peel
¼ tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp orange liqueur

Meringue

4 egg whites, room temperature
¼ tsp. cream of tartar
½ cup sugar
2 Tbsp. sugar

For crust: Combine flour, 3 Tbsp. sugar, and salt in large bowl. Cut in butter and shortening until coarse meal forms. Make well in center. Add orange juice and liqueur. Toss with fork to combine. Knead dough just until holding together. Form into ball; flatten. Wrap with plastic. Refrigerate 30 minutes.

Butter 11-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Roll dough out on lightly floured surface to 14-inch round. Transfer to prepared pan. Trim and finish edges. Pierce bottom of crust with fork. Refrigerate 30 minutes

Position rack in lower third of oven and preheat to 400. Line crust with parchment or foil and fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake until dough is set, about 15 minutes. Remove paper and beans. Sprinkle crust with 2 Tbsp. sugar. Bake until brown, about 15 minutes. Cool.

For filling: Thoroughly combine first 6 ingredients in heavy large saucepan. Let stand 30 minutes, mixing occasionally. Bring to boil, stirring constantly. Reduce heat to medium and cook until liquid thickens and rhubarb softens, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. Mix in butter and liqueur. Cool completely.

For meringue: Preheat oven to 425. Using electric mixer, beat whites until foamy. Add cream of tartar and beat until soft peaks form. Add ½ cup sugar, 2 Tbsp. at a time, beating until stiff and glossy. Turn filling into crust. Pipe or spoon meringue atop tart, covering filling completely and sealing to crust. Sprinkle with 2 Tbsp. sugar. Bake about 5 minutes, until light brown. Cool completely and serve at room temperature.