Still Time for Meatloaf

When you think of comfort food, what comes to mind immediately? Mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, meat loaf? I think meat loaf is the most universal answer.


There are many versions and ideas of meat loaf around the world, but for me, ground meat, some kind of starchy filler, egg, liquid, seasonings and a topping are standard. After that, the sky’s the limit. I went through my recipe collection to find variations on the meat loaf theme and this is what came up:

Let’s start with the meat; beef is the most common, but years ago there was a standard ground meat mixture sold in markets called “meatloaf mix” that was ½ ground beef, ¼ ground pork and ¼ ground veal. Actually you can still find this in a few places but veal is getting to be so rare and so expensive that it is definitely hard to find. Here in Red Wing I found it in the regular packaged meat case at Koplin’s Village.

The starchy filler is really variable; some folks swear by bread crumbs, others use crackers. Then there are the aficionados of wheat germ, oatmeal, farina (cream of wheat) or other cereal grains. Do you dump the crumbs in dry or soak them first in milk or water?

Egg is necessary to bind the mixture together so the loaf doesn’t crumble apart after it’s cooked. Egg substitutes work perfectly well, as do just egg whites or just yolks. If you use just yolks, you will need some extra liquid for moisture.

The liquid is extremely important and will determine the moistness of your loaf as well as add to the flavor. Common liquids used are milk, wine, water, broth, or tomato juice.

Seasonings can really make your meat loaf distinctive and also define its character: Mexican meatloaf using chili powder and cumin, French using tarragon, Italian using an Italian seasoning blend, etc. Salt and pepper are standard, but I came across recipes that had Worcestershire sauce, onion-soup mix, horseradish, mustard, sage, thyme, oregano, Italian salad-dressing mix and garlic powder.

Add-ins are getting very popular these days—especially vegetables. I guess the thinking goes that since meatloaf is usually an acceptable food to husbands and children, it’s a good place to get them to eat more vegetables. Chopped onions are pretty standard, but now red and green peppers, carrots, peas, even broccoli (I don’t recommend this one) are added to what is usually termed “calico meatloaf.”

What is a meatloaf topping? Well, when I was a kid my Mom used catsup—sometimes mixed with brown sugar and mustard. But again, only your imagination limits you here. Mashed potatoes, canned ravioli (no kidding), chili sauce, soups, pickle relish, cheese, mushrooms, bacon slices, pastry crusts or filo dough all are found on the top of a meatloaf somewhere. Some recipes called for pouring off the drippings, skimming the fat and adding tomato juice to reserved sauce and thickening it for gravy to serve over the finished loaf.

After reading about all these meat loaves, I got the bug to come up with a basic meatloaf and then give some of the more appealing variations a try. Here is the basic meatloaf mix I used:

1 ½ pounds ground beef or mixture of beef, pork and veal if you can find it
½ cup dried bread crumbs
1 egg
½ cup milk
¼ cup chopped onion
1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp. salt
¼ tsp. dry mustard

Mix all ingredients with hands, gently. Spread mixture in an ungreased loaf pan, 9 x 5 x 3 inches, or shape into a free-form loaf to bake in an ungreased baking pan. Spoon topping of your choice onto loaf. Bake at 350 degrees uncovered for 1-to-1 ¼ hours. Drain off fat. Makes about 6 servings.

Meat loaf and mashed potatoes seem to me to be a natural combo, so I am including this variation (which we loved).

4 slices fresh soft bread
2 pounds ground beef
2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. ground sage
¼ tsp. pepper
½ cup milk
2 eggs
1 small onion, quartered
5 parsley sprigs
1 4-inch-long stalk celery
4 medium potatoes, cooked and mashed with milk and butter, salt and pepper
2 Tbsp melted butter

Into food processor or blender tear bread and process until finely crumbled; empty into large bowl. Mix beef, salt, sage and pepper with crumbs. Into blender container put milk, eggs, onion, parsley and celery. Cover and blend until vegetables are finely chopped. Pour over meat; mix well. Place meat mixture in a sprayed loaf pan (10 x 5 x 3”). Bake at 350 for 1 hour 15 minutes. Remove from oven and spread mashed potatoes over top, sealing to edges of pan. Bake for ten minutes. Remove and drizzle melted butter over potatoes and broil until potatoes brown slightly.

Blizzard Food

It’s been quite some time since we’ve experienced so many snow storms in Minnesota. And here it is March.  It came in like a lion and is purported to be the snowiest month of the year. Who knows? We may have even more of the white stuff piling up around us before the winter is through. Except for the difficulty of travel and the labor of removing snow, it is rather exciting and reminiscent of one’s childhood if you—like I—grew up in the cold and snowy north.

This week I am home and ready to “cozy in.”  All winter long we keep copies of Whittier's "Snowbound" in the library and around the house.  We actually have six copies so all of our guests can enjoy their own copy.  I sat in our library and re-read it. I had forgotten what a wonderful piece of literature it is. Of course, any references to food popped out at me and I share this delicious passage:

Shut in from all the world without,
We sat the clean-winged hearth about
Content to let the north-wind roar
In baffled rage at pane and door,
While the red logs before us beat
The frost-line back with tropic heat;…
Between the andirons’ straddling feet,
The mug of cider simmered slow,
The apples sputtered in a row,
And, close at hand, the basket stood
With nuts from brown October’s wood.

We actually have 9 working fireplaces in this house even though 5 are in guests’ bedrooms. That still leaves us four to choose from and I plan to find some great books, games—I think it would be great to read the whole poem of Snowbound out loud to each other. Add some “fireside food” to comfort us. Here are a few recipes I pass on to you in case you want to do the same.

Baked Apples with Raisins
(6 servings)

6 baking apples (such as Golden Delicious or Braeburn)
1 1/3 cups golden raisins
¾ cup (packed) golden brown sugar
1 cup apple juice
¼ cup butter

Preheat oven to 375. Scoop out stem, core and seed of apples, leaving bottom intact. Peel skin off top half of each apple with an apple peeler. Arrange apples, cavity side up, in a 13x9x2-inch glass baking dish.

Stir raisins and sugar in a bowl to blend. Pack about 2 Tbsp raisin mixture into cavity of each apple. Sprinkle remaining mixture into the dish around apples. Pour juice over and around apples. Dot with butter.

Bake apples for 1 hour and 10 minutes, basting often with juices. Let apples stand 10 minutes, basting occasionally. Serve in bowls with juices poured over and pass thick cream

Delightful Hot Chocolate

4 cups whole milk
¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
¼ cup sugar
4 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) or semisweet chocolate, chopped
Pinch of salt
Miniature marshmallows

Bring milk, cocoa powder and sugar to simmer in heavy large saucepan over medium-high heat, whisking frequently. Add chocolate; whisk until melted and smooth. Add salt; bring to simmer, whisking constantly until frothy. Ladle into 4 mugs. Sprinkle with marshmallows.

If you’re not a big hot chocolate fan or want something a little more bracing against the storm, try this concoction:

Mulled Cranberry, Apple and Rum Cider
(makes about 6 cups)

1 large orange
3 cups cranberry juice cocktail
3 cups apple cider
¾ cup (packed) golden brown sugar
4 ½ 3-to 4-inch long cinnamon sticks
18 whole cloves
½ tsp. ground nutmeg
6 Tbsp. dark rum
6 additional 3-to 4-inch-long cinnamon sticks (optional)
6 orange slices

Remove peel from orange in long strips. Place strips in large saucepan; halve orange and squeeze juice into pan. Add cranberry juice cocktail, apple cider, sugar, 4 ½ cinnamon sticks, cloves and nutmeg. Bring to boil over high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Reduce heat to medium and simmer 25 minutes. Add rum to cider; simmer 5 minutes. Ladle into mugs. Garnish with cinnamon sticks and orange slices, if desired, and serve.  (Adapted from Bon Appetit, February 2005)

For heartier fare, the obvious choices are usually the best: a big pot of chili or any thick, hot soup, or perhaps a robust beef stew. Here’s one that should stick to your ribs and comfort you as well:

Blustery Day Beef Stew

4 ounces bacon slices, coarsely chopped
4 Tbsp olive oil
3 pounds trimmed boneless beef chuck, cut into 1 ½-inch pieces
2 large onions, peeled and quartered
3 Tbsp. flour
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice
2 cups red wine
1 ½ cups canned beef broth
1 bay leaf
1 tsp. dried thyme
1 pound rutabagas, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 large carrots, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 pounds white potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

Cook bacon in heavy large pot over medium-high heat until brown and crisp, about 8 minutes. Transfer bacon to small bowl, leaving drippings. Add 3 Tbsp. oil to drippings in pot. Increase heat to high. Sprinkle beef with salt and pepper. Add beef to pot and sauté until no longer pink, about 4 minutes. (Do it in batches). Transfer beef to large bowl. Add remaining oil to pot; add onions until brown, about 8 minutes. Add flour and stir 1 minute. Return beef and any accumulated juices to pot. Mix in bacon tomatoes with juices, wine, broth, bay leaf, and thyme. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cover pot and simmer 15 minutes. Add rutabagas, carrots and potatoes. Cover and simmer 45 minutes. Uncover and simmer until meat is tender, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes. Serve.

I say, “Let it snow!”

Spring Is Here...sort of

Yesterday was the vernal equinox, better known as the first day of spring. Today is the feast day of St. Benedict born c480 AD; the birthday of Johann Sebastian Bach, born in 1685; Back Badge Day, based on the Battle of Alexandria on which veterans of that battle wore badges on the back and front of their caps and, lastly, Earth Day.


On the food scene, I like the spring theme. We are so ready—this year especially—that I just can’t help myself from succumbing to the temptations of the market. The asparagus is still expensive, the rhubarb is just appearing, and strawberries aren’t at their best yet, but I am still putting together meals with these beautiful beguiling harbingers of spring.

(All recipes are adapted from Bon Appetit magazines.)

Asparagus is good just quickly steamed and served naked—hot or cold. But if you like to dress things up, try this twist on the typical Hollandaise sauce.

1 pound fresh asparagus, trimmed
2 egg yolks
1 Tbsp. fresh orange juice
½ tsp. grated orange peel
6 Tbsp. butter, melted
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Grated orange peel and halved orange slices for garnish

Cook asparagus in rapidly boiling salted water until tender, 8-11 minutes. Shake dry over high heat in same pan. Combine egg yolks, orange juice and peel in blender and mix well. Heat butter until bubbly. With blender running, gradually add hot butter to yolk mixture in thin stream and mix thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon sauce over asparagus. Garnish with orange peel and slices.

Lamb is one of my favorite meats and it is always a welcome spring treat. This is a doubly festive treatment, since the colors of the peppers will dress up the spring meal, too. This is an Italian dish from the Abruzzi. Start marinating the lamb a day ahead and this dish can be made ahead and reheated very successfully.

6 servings

1 ¾ cups dry white wine
1/3 cup packed fresh oregano, chopped
3 Tbsp olive oil
4 bay leaves, crumbled
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 Tbsp. shredded lemon peel
3 ½ pounds boneless lamb shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
6 Tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 ½ Tbsp. Italian parsley, minced
2 jalapeno chilies, seeded and sliced
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 cup drained canned Italian plum tomatoes, crushed
1 cup chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 red bell peppers, cut into strips
2 yellow bell peppers, cut into strips

Combine first 6 ingredients in large bowl. Add lamb and toss well. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Remove lamb from marinade; reserve marinade. Pat lamb dry. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in Dutch oven, medium-high heat. Add half of lamb and brown well. Remove to platter. Add more oil and brown remaining lamb. Remove to platter. Add onion and parsley to Dutch oven and sauté 3 minutes. Add chilies and sauté until onion begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Mix in minced garlic and reserved marinade. Bring to boil, scraping up browned bits. Return lamb to Dutch oven. Add tomatoes. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until lamb is tender and sauce is thick, but not dry, adding up to 1 cup stock if necessary, about 1 ½ hours. Season with salt and pepper. Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in heavy skillet over high heat. Add bell peppers and sauté until tender. Add to lamb and simmer 10 minutes. Serve hot.

To top off this delicious dinner try this lovely spring dessert:

Strawberry Rhubarb Meringue Tart

Crust

1 ½ cups flour
3 Tbsp sugar
¼ tsp salt
¼ cup butter
¼ cup solid vegetable shortening
3 Tbsp fresh orange juice
1 Tbsp orange liqueur
2 Tbsp sugar

Filling

4 cups ½-inch pieces rhubarb (about 1 ½ pounds)
1 pint strawberries, halved
1 ½ cups sugar
¼ cup quick-cooking tapioca
4 tsp. grated orange peel
¼ tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp orange liqueur

Meringue

4 egg whites, room temperature
¼ tsp. cream of tartar
½ cup sugar
2 Tbsp. sugar

For crust: Combine flour, 3 Tbsp. sugar, and salt in large bowl. Cut in butter and shortening until coarse meal forms. Make well in center. Add orange juice and liqueur. Toss with fork to combine. Knead dough just until holding together. Form into ball; flatten. Wrap with plastic. Refrigerate 30 minutes.

Butter 11-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Roll dough out on lightly floured surface to 14-inch round. Transfer to prepared pan. Trim and finish edges. Pierce bottom of crust with fork. Refrigerate 30 minutes

Position rack in lower third of oven and preheat to 400. Line crust with parchment or foil and fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake until dough is set, about 15 minutes. Remove paper and beans. Sprinkle crust with 2 Tbsp. sugar. Bake until brown, about 15 minutes. Cool.

For filling: Thoroughly combine first 6 ingredients in heavy large saucepan. Let stand 30 minutes, mixing occasionally. Bring to boil, stirring constantly. Reduce heat to medium and cook until liquid thickens and rhubarb softens, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. Mix in butter and liqueur. Cool completely.

For meringue: Preheat oven to 425. Using electric mixer, beat whites until foamy. Add cream of tartar and beat until soft peaks form. Add ½ cup sugar, 2 Tbsp. at a time, beating until stiff and glossy. Turn filling into crust. Pipe or spoon meringue atop tart, covering filling completely and sealing to crust. Sprinkle with 2 Tbsp. sugar. Bake about 5 minutes, until light brown. Cool completely and serve at room temperature.

Seven Seas and then some.

I didn’t intend to write about Chicken Cacciatore this week—I was thinking of something more spring-like to celebrate the weather warming and the beginning of the season. Cacciatore means “in the hunter’s style” in Italian—and hunting sort of sounds like Fall. However, when Zig and I started to discuss the theme for our up-coming turn at hosting our dinner group a.k.a. Grub Club, he suggested the Seven Seas.


We have pretty much exhausted the different nationalities and so the thought of an eclectic world menu sounded interesting; however, when I asked him from which of the seven seas he thought our main course should come, he hit me with this: Classic Chicken Cacciatore (has 7 c’s, see?) You have to know Zig.

Well, I decided that wasn’t a good theme for Grub Club, but it made me think about chicken cacciatore which I hadn’t made in a long time. I found three different recipes using three different techniques and methods of cooking—even some different ingredients. I decided to try the one with the least fat and calories to see if it was good—and then move on if it was lacking. We all know that most dishes that cut the fat and calories are not as good as their fat cousins—but this was an exception. It was so good that I didn’t even bother to try the others. I think you will agree.

The cost factor is paramount in my cooking these days, as I am sure it is in yours. This is such a low-cost meal for a dish worthy of company, that I filed it in my special budget dishes file. You can further reduce the cost of this dish by buying large, succulent, whole chickens and cutting them up yourself. This is really a pretty simple undertaking, once you get the hang of it. Make sure the chicken is still partially frozen for the easiest cutting. You should be able to move the legs and thighs away from the body easily, but still see ice crystals in the chicken. Most old-fashioned standard cookbooks will have step-by-step instructions, usually with pictures, to guide you. If you’ve done it once or twice and have a good knife/cleaver/poultry shears, it will take you under 10 minutes.

While it is still partially frozen, the skin will come off cleanly and easily, too.

The first time I served it, I used a low-fat polenta alongside it; the next time we had pasta and French bread to soak up the even-better-the-second-time-around sauce.

Classic Seven Seas Chicken Cacciatore

3-4 pound chicken, cut up
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 ½ cups sliced fresh mushrooms
1 medium onion, sliced
½ large green pepper, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 14 ½ -ounce can diced tomatoes, undrained
1 6-ounce can tomato paste
¾ cup white Zinfandel (or other fruity wine)
1 tsp sugar (2 tsp. if you use a dry wine)
½ tsp. salt
1 ½ tsp. Italian seasoning
1/8 tsp. black pepper
1 Tbsp snipped parsley

Polenta or hot, cooked pasta (such as spaghetti or linguine)

Skin chicken. In large skillet cook chicken in hot olive oil about 15 minutes or until light brown, turning to brown evenly. Remove chicken from skillet, reserving drippings in skillet; set chicken aside. Add mushrooms, onion, garlic and green pepper to skillet; saute about 5 minutes. Return chicken to skillet. In another bowl, combine tomatoes, tomato paste, wine, sugar, salt, Italian seasoning and pepper. Pour over chicken in skillet. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to a simmer and cook, covered for 35 minutes. Turn chicken once during cooking; test for doneness and continue cooking for 5-10 minutes if necessary. Sprinkle with parsley. Makes 6 servings at 300 calories per serving

Polenta

1 cup medium-grind cornmeal
1 cup cold water
½ tsp. salt
Grated Pecorino-Romano cheese (or Parmesan)

In saucepan, bring 2 ¾ cups water to boiling. Meanwhile, in a bowl combine cornmeal, 1 cup cold water and salt. Slowly add cornmeal mixture to the boiling water, stirring constantly. Cook and stir until mixture returns to boiling. Reduce heat to low. Cook 10 to 15 minutes or until mixture is very thick, stirring occasionally. Pour hot mixture into an 8x11 rectangular baking pan, spreading into an even layer; cool. Cover and chill about 45 minutes or until very firm. Bake polenta, uncovered in a 350 degree oven about 20 minutes. Cut into squares. Put grated cheese over polenta and sauce. Makes 6 side-dish servings at 84 calories per serving.

Grapefruit and Salads

The grocery store is more of a challenge every day. The news says there is no inflation, but they exclude in their figures the price of food and gas. ??????? That makes no sense to me since these are things everyone consumes on a daily basis. Even if you don’t drive an automobile, the price of all goods is increased when fuel increases. The only one over which we have any control is food.


I actually enjoy going to the store and scouting out the bargains. I don’t enjoy having to pay more for basic staples that I can’t do without, however, so whenever I come across some staple that is on sale or relatively cheap I buy as much as I can use and store. The “red letter” foods (foods that reach their peak of quality and availability and thus are inexpensive) for March are onions, lemons and grapefruit.

Lemons are such a versatile and important food that I have written about them many times and they are in a class of their own—likewise onions; but not so much grapefruit. This year I have found grapefruit at rock bottom prices while at the same time other produce has been going up. I actually purchased a 5 pound bag of delicious, plump, pink grapefruit from Texas (the best, I think) for $2.00! That’s $.40/pound—a magnificent buy. Granted, they are not usually that cheap—yesterday I bought the same amount for $3.00, but that is still a great bargain.

What to do with all this grapefruit? I began in earnest looking through my recipe collection for grapefruit recipes and there are hundreds. I actually fell back on an old standard that I serve here at the inn frequently—broiled grapefruit.

Many of our guests tell me they have never had grapefruit served this way before, which I find amusing, since I always thought it was the only way people ate grapefruit when I was young. Turns out that my mom had tooth sensitivity to hot and cold and wanted her grapefruit warm—so she covered it with brown sugar and broiled it until the sugar caramelized and formed a crust. She then usually put a maraschino cherry in the center and a little of the cherry juice to make it pretty and sweeter and served it. Simple and delicious—just be sure you cut around the outside of each grapefruit half, freeing the pulp from the skin completely and then (hopefully using a special grapefruit cutter) cut between each section, loosening the fruit from the membranes. Don’t forget to remove the seeds. This isn’t really too difficult and it makes it so much easier and more pleasant to eat.

Grapefruit is an extremely healthy food. In addition to the obvious citrus fruit content of vitamin C, one half of a grapefruit has 325mg of potassium 25mcg of folate, 40 mg of calcium and 1 mg of iron. The pink and red varieties are high in beta carotene—a great antioxidant. It’s low in calories and high in fiber making it a great first course or snack food to make you feel full. Recent studies have found that grapefruit are high in lycopene, an antioxidant that appears to lower the risk of prostate cancer; phenolic acid which inhibits the formation of cancer-causing nitrosamines; limonoids, terpenes and monoterpenes and bioflavonoids all of which inhibit the production of cancerous cells. There are anecdotal studies that say grapefruit can alleviate the symptoms from arthritis, lupus and other inflammatory disorders. If that is true, it is probably due to plant chemicals that block prostaglandins, substances that cause inflammation. It’s plain to see that grapefruit is not only a bargain in food, but also in pharmaceuticals.

Here’s a Thai recipe that is a really new and sophisticated take on the common grapefruit—we loved it!

Thai Pink Grapefruit Salad

Serve either as a side salad alongside fish or chicken or as a main dish salad with chicken or shrimp added.

3 Tbsp sweetened shredded coconut
2 Tbsp fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp fish sauce (nam pla)
1 Tbsp sugar
2 cups sectioned pink grapefruit (about 4 grapefruit)
½ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
2 Tbsp coarsely chopped roasted salted peanuts
1 Tbsp. finely minced green onion
2 tsp. finely minced jalapeno peppers
Sprinkling of crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
Leaves of soft, buttery lettuce

Toast the coconut in a dry skillet for 3 to 4 minutes over medium-high heat until soft brown. Turn out on plate to cool. Combine lime juice, fish sauce, and sugar in a medium bowl and stir to dissolve sugar. Add grapefruit, cilantro, coconut, peanuts, onion and chile. Toss gently to combine. Line a salad plate with lettuce leaves and tear a few for the center of the plate. Spoon grapefruit mixture onto torn lettuce. Sprinkle with a few more chopped peanuts and red pepper flakes if using.

Shrove Tuesday

Today is Shrove Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday.  Because Shrove Tuesday is directly linked to Easter, the date varies from year to year.  Shrovetide (the three days before Ash Wednesday) was originally a time of penitence but became instead a time of merrymaking. And Shrove Tuesday is often celebrated by eating pancakes. In the real Shrove Tuesday tradition, refreshments should be sausage links and pancakes or waffles topped with maple butter (a combination of 1 cup maple syrup for each ½ cup butter, beaten until fluffy).


“…there is a bell rung call’d the Pancake-Bell, then there is a thing call’d wheaten floure which cookes do mingle with water, eggs, spice and other tragicall, magicall enchantments into the form of a Flip-Jack, call’d Pancake, which ominous incantation the people do devour very greedillie.”—John Taylor, the Water Poet 1620

Before starting the fasting, austere season of Lent, celebrations of Mardi Gras are well known, Shrove Tuesday, not so much. But since I am a great fan of pancakes, I’ve decided to plan a celebration featuring them on Tuesday.

Pancakes cover a large range of dishes; everything from crepes, potato latkes, large lumberjack-size flap-jacks, to delicate Swedish pancakes and oven baked Pannekuchen.

They also span the flour-water-oil-eggs-style to healthy, hearty whole grain cakes. They can be leavened with baking powder, eggs, or yeast—there are even sourdough pancakes.

My everyday, standard recipe is still probably my favorite. Each year I give my children a container full of this pancake mix; and although it is easy to make, they seem to appreciate me making it for them. I did put this recipe into my column in December, 2006, but I will repeat it here.

Lynette’s five-grain pancake mix (makes 12 cups)

5 cups white flour
2 ½ cups whole wheat flour
½ cup soy flour
½ cup ground flax seed
½ cup wheat germ
1 cup buttermilk powder
1 cup powdered milk
7 Tbsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. salt
2 Tbsp. baking soda
3 Tbsp. baking powder

Mix everything together well with a large wire whisk. Store in a cool, dry place. To prepare: use 2 cups mix, 1-3/4 cups water, 1 egg and 2 ½ Tbsp. canola oil. Mix just until blended. Bake on a hot griddle, sprayed with vegetable spray. Can be thinned with more water if thinner pancakes are desired.

Potato Pancakes are a favorite in Eastern Europe. My late mother-in-law, Monika, loved them and ordered them whenever they were on a menu. Here is the Latvian version:

2 eggs, beaten
3 cups grated raw potatoes
¼ cup grated onion
1 tsp. salt
½ tsp. pepper
2 Tbsp. flour
Butter or oil for frying

Mix eggs, potatoes, onions, salt, pepper, and flour together in a food processor until smooth. Fry mixture in butter or oil, using about 1 tablespoon batter per pancake. Serve with sour cream and applesauce. Makes 10-15 pancakes.

At the inn, we serve both Giant German Pancakes and Swedish pancakes. These are very different versions of the pancake.

Giant German Pancakes (Dutch Pannekuchen)

3 eggs
½ cup flour
½ tsp. salt
½ cup milk
2 Tbsp. melted butter (can use oil)

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Generously butter an 8-or-10 inch cast iron skillet. In a bowl, beat eggs with a fork until blended. Add flour and salt in 4 parts, 2 tablespoons at a time, stirring until smooth. Add milk in 2 parts. Lightly stir in melted butter. Pour into prepared skillet. Bake in oven for 20 minutes. Turn off oven and leave 10 minutes. Serve with butter, powdered sugar and lemon juice. You can also fill shell of pancake with sweetened berries and whipped cream or sausages and scrambled eggs. A very versatile recipe.

Swedish Pancakes (Plattar)

You really do better with a special plattar pan made of cast iron with seven equal-size indentations to contain the batter during cooking and thus make perfect little “silver dollar” size pancakes. If you don’t have one, bake them like crepes, only use 1 tablespoon batter on a lightly greased skillet; turn when brown and bake other side briefly.

3 eggs
1 ¼ cups milk
¾ cups flour
1 Tbsp. sugar
½ tsp. salt
2 Tbsp. melted butter

In blender container or food processor, put in the following order: milk, eggs, butter, flour, sugar and salt. Blend until smooth, scraping down container. Let batter sit at least 30 minutes. Heat Swedish pancake pan on medium-high heat until a drop of water skips and hisses when dropped on skillet. Spray with vegetable spray. Pour approximately 1 Tbsp. batter into each container. Tip skillet if necessary to cover indentation evenly.

Pick up each pancake with fork tines at edge of pancake and flip over. Bake briefly—the amount of time to flip each pancake is enough. Remove to an oven-proof platter and cover loosely with foil. Keep warm in 170 degree oven until ready to serve.

To serve: stack pancakes with a sprinkle of granulated sugar between each one. Put about 6 in a stack. Pour melted butter over and then lingonberries and crème fraiche or blueberry compote and sweetened whipped cream.

Pancakes and Waffles

Shrove Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday is coming up and I love the traditional foods for that day which are pancakes and waffles (unless you live in New Orleans). Pancakes are more traditional, but I love waffles. The waffle irons are fired up and my mouth is watering—what a great party idea!

There are so many variations on this theme that I hardly know where to begin: crisp traditional waffles, Belgian waffles (made with yeast and needing an especially deep waffle iron), waffles with pumpkin added or pecans or both; as well as lots of ways to serve them. You can make waffles a savory main dish by pouring creamed chicken over them or make a wonderful dessert with fruit and ice cream additions.

Because I have several irons (a luxury, I know), I am creating a menu of three courses—all made with waffles baked and served differently.

Appetizer: Heart-shaped corn canapés with spicy cheese

Main course: Walnut Waffles with chicken and artichokes
Dessert: Dessert Waffles with chocolate and ice cream

Each course uses a different batter, but they have one thing in common—lots of fat. As a matter of fact the reason that Shrove Tuesday is also known as Mardi gras (fat Tuesday) is that observant Christians wanted a way to use up the fat in their kitchens in preparation for lean Lent. If you cut back on the fat in a waffle recipe you will be disappointed in the results. Trust me.

I decided to skip the Belgian (yeast-raised) waffle for this column because I really prefer the flavor of the quick-type batter. But I used two different types of irons—one the Belgian style that has deep pockets and a Norwegian shallow iron with waffles shaped like hearts. The shallow iron is great for a cornmeal waffle because both the cornmeal and the iron produce an extra-crispy waffle which is perfect for a canapé-like base for the appetizer course.

Hot Cheddar Waffles

Cornmeal batter:

1 cup flour

2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. soda
1 tsp. sugar

½ tsp. salt

1 cup yellow cornmeal
2 beaten eggs
2 cups buttermilk
¼ cup canola oil

Spread:

2 Tbsp. soft butter

½ lb. sharp Cheddar cheese
1 Tbsp. sherry
1 green onion sliced, green and white
Cayenne pepper

Whisk together flour, baking powder, soda, sugar and salt; stir in corn meal. Combine remaining ingredients; add, mixing just till moistened. Bake in shallow waffle iron. Cool on rack. Cut into small sections, dependent on your waffle iron design.

In food processor, put butter, cheese and sherry and process until very smooth. Spread on waffles; sprinkle with cayenne to taste and a few green onion slices. Broil until spread bubbles but waffles are not burned.

Walnut Waffles with Chicken and Artichokes

Chicken Artichoke Topping
2 chicken breast halves, skinned and boned
1 cup white Zinfandel wine
1 ½ Tbsp olive oil
½ cup finely chopped onion
1 Tbsp. minced garlic
1 Tbsp fresh or pickled jalapeno pepper
½ cup green or red pepper, julienned
2 Tbsp diced carrot
1 4-oz can mushrooms, drained
½ cup chicken broth
1 14-oz. can artichoke hearts, rinsed, drained and quartered
1 Tbsp butter and 1 Tbsp flour, kneaded together
Fresh parsley leaves, minced

Poach chicken breasts in wine until tender, but still pink (about 5 minutes). Drain chicken, saving poaching liquid. Dice into 1-inch cubes; set aside. Heat olive oil in large skillet and add onion, garlic and jalapeno, green pepper and carrots until onion is just transparent, being careful not to burn garlic. Add chicken broth, wine poaching liquid and mushrooms. Cover and cook gently for 10 minutes. Add butter-flour lump and whisk into liquid and cook until thick. Add chicken pieces and cook until heated through. Serve over walnut waffles. Garnish with fresh parsley.

Waffle Batter

2 ¼ cups flour
4 tsp. baking powder
¾ tsp. salt
1 ½ Tbsp sugar
2 beaten eggs
2 ¼ cups milk
¾ cup canola oil
½ cup toasted broken walnuts

Preheat a deep-pocket, Belgian-style waffle iron. Spray with vegetable spray. Bake waffles as per your iron’s capacity, sprinkling a few walnuts on batter before closing lid. Keep waffles warm on oven-proof cooling rack set in 170 degree oven (warm) until ready to serve.

Dessert Waffles

1 ¼ cups sifted cake flour

½ tsp. salt

3 tsp. baking powder

2 whole eggs, beaten

1 cup half and half

¼ cup melted butter

2 stiff-beaten egg whites

Semisweet chocolate chips

Whisk dry ingredients. Blend whole eggs and cream; stir in. Add butter. Fold in egg whites. Sprinkle chocolate chips over batter in baker. Serve with vanilla ice cream and chocolate syrup.

Mardi Gras

Mardi Gras celebrations begin on Twelfth Night (January 6) and continue until Shrove Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday. It is a period of feasting and revelry unparalleled in other festivals in America. Another term for this period is carnival which literally means farewell to meat (Latin) and anticipates the rigors of Lent.


It is likely that the first Mardi Gras was celebrated in 1699 before New Orleans even existed, by French colonists in a temporary camp pitched 30 miles above the mouth of the Mississippi. By mid-18th Century the custom was well established in New Orleans and was mainly an excuse for licentious frolic.

In 1857 the celebration we see today began when socially prominent young men who were irked by the ill-bred antics of the common people, formed a secret society called the Mistick Krewe of Comus, staging a splendid parade with floats and costumes and a ball to which only the best people were invited. Today the parades and balls have multiplied and Mardi Gras and New Orleans are inseparable. (Information taken and adapted from Time-Life’s Foods of the World.)

One year, the Grub Club dinner group, to which we belong, met and the theme was Mardi Gras. Ash Wednesday was the following week, so celebrating was in order. We were responsible for the first course and I made a stuffed crab dish which I have made before and is delicious; however, it was a toss up with Shrimp Remoulade which is also a winner. Then there is gumbo—a dish which has as many variations as you can imagine and is almost synonymous with New Orleans.

I lived in the south many years ago and had a great friend who was a Creole woman. She taught me to cook many things that are so good it’s hard to believe they all come from very homey and basic ingredients. But that is the magic of the cooking in New Orleans; whether you have the fresh seafood from the area or just some herbs and red beans, the food made with the skill of the Creole and Acadian people is superb and gives New Orleans the reputation of serving the finest cuisine in the country.

Stuffed Crabs (serves 6 as a first course)

1 Tbsp. butter, softened, plus 7 Tbsp. butter, cut into ½ inch bits
2 cups plus 2 Tbsp. soft fresh crumbs made from Italian or French bread, pulverized in a food processor
¼ cup bottled clam juice
¼ cup finely chopped onions
¾ pound fresh, frozen or canned crabmeat, drained and picked over for bits of shell
½ cup finely chopped scallions
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
½ tsp. salt

Preheat the oven to 400. With a pastry brush, spread the tablespoon of softened butter evenly over the bottoms of six medium-sized natural or ceramic crab or scallop shells. Combine 2 cups of the bread crumbs with the clam juice in a bowl, mix well and set aside. In heavy, large skillet, melt 4 Tbsp of butter bits over medium heat. Add the onions and stir for about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the moistened bread crumbs, the crabmeat, scallions, parsley, red pepper and salt. Taste for seasoning. Spoon crabmeat mixture into the buttered shells, dividing it equally. Sprinkle the remaining 2 Tbsp bread crumbs and remaining 3 Tbsp. of butter bits over the tops and arrange the crab or scallop shells side by side in a large shallow baking dish. Bake in upper third of oven for 25 minutes, then slide them under the broiler for 30 seconds to brown tops. Serve immediately in the shells.

Second Choice Shrimp Remoulade (serves 6 to 8 as a first course)

¼ cup spicy brown mustard
2 Tbsp paprika
1 tsp. cayenne pepper
5 tsp. salt
½ cup tarragon vinegar
1 1/3 cups olive oil
1 ½ cups coarsely chopped scallions
½ cup finely chopped celery
½ cup coarsely chopped Italian parsley
3 pounds medium-sized uncooked shrimp (about 20-24 to a pound)
1 large iceberg lettuce, trimmed, and cut into ¼ inch wide shreds

Combine mustard, paprika, cayenne and 4 tsp. salt in bowl and whisk until combined. Beat in the vinegar. Whisking constantly, pour in the oil in a slow, thin stream and continue to beat until smooth and thick. Add scallions, celery and parsley; mix well. Let rest at room temperature for 4 hours before serving. Meanwhile, shell and devein shrimp. Wash briefly under cold running water. Drain. Bring 2 quarts of water and 1 tsp. salt to a simmer, drop in shrimp and cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool. Chill until serving time. Just before serving, mound the shredded lettuce attractively on six to eight chilled serving plates and arrange shrimp on top. Spoon sauce over shrimp and serve.

Chocolate, Need I Say More?

March is definitely the longest month of the year.  Of course it has the maximum days a month can have, and even in a Leap Year, it comes right after the shortest.  But the real reason it is especially long is because it is the month of waiting.  Here in Minnesota we are waiting for snow to be gone, warm sunny days, the first brave bulb flowers to emerge, a robin or two.  And you may get some of those.  But just as your step quickens and you feel the lightness of spring—Bam!  You get hit with a howling blizzard followed by raw dreariness.  And so it seems forever until the steady days of 60+ degrees, green grass and Easter arrive, usually early to mid April. 

What has this to do with food?  Everything, of course. 

Food is comfort, pleasure and available pretty much right away.  No waiting.  You can open a box cake mix and about an hour later be cutting a delicious slice to eat with a glass of milk or a cup of tea.  Or, even more comforting and fun, make a cake from scratch. 

After school, in the 50’s when I grew up, my best friend and I skated on the neighborhood pond, still frozen in March, and as soon as the light went on I headed home.  There, often as not, my Mom (yes, in a housedress and apron) was frosting a beautiful layer cake for our dinner’s dessert.  None of us was fat and we had dessert every night for dinner.  Oh yes, many times a simple pudding or fruit sauce and a cookie, but always something sweet to end the meal.  Of course, cake was best and Mom was famous for her cakes.  When she was 16 she won a week’s trip to the Minnesota State Fair  (she lived in Mankato) for bread and cake and ran away with all kinds of blue ribbons.

Here are a few of her “best” recipes and a couple of my own:

This cake won ME a blue ribbon at the 1969 Minnesota State Fair

The Best Devil’s Food Cake You Can Bake From Scratch

2 Cups (packed) brown sugar                                            2 Cups cake flour, sifted

½ cup (one stick) butter (no substitutes)                        2 tsp. baking soda

½ cup sour cream (not commercial) or buttermilk           ½ tsp. salt

2 eggs                                                                                    2 squares baking chocolate, melted and cooled

1 tsp. vanilla                                                                          1 cup hot water (add last) will thin out batter

Cream sugar and butter until light and fluffy.  Sift together in a large bowl all the dry ingredients.  Add eggs to butter-sugar mixture one at a time until well blended.  Add vanilla.   Add dry ingredients alternately with sour cream or buttermilk.  Add melted and cooled chocolate.  Blend well.  Add cup of hot water and blend until smooth.  Pour batter into 2 9” layer pans that have been sprayed with vegetable oil spray and lightly dusted with flour or lined with parchment paper.  Bake at 350 deg. For 28-32 minutes until they test done.  Frost with Uncooked Fudge frosting (recipe follows). 

Uncooked Fudge Frosting

1 pound powdered sugar                                                    1/8 tsp. salt

3 squares baking chocolate, melted and cooled             6-8 Tbsp. heavy cream

5 Tbsp. Butter, melted and cooled                                    1 cup chopped pecans (optional)                     

1 tsp. vanilla

Put sugar in mixer bowl.  Add all other ingredients, except nuts and beat until smooth and glossy.  If too stiff, add cream or milk, one tablespoon at a time.  If too thin, add a little more powdered sugar. Sprinkle nuts on top of cake.

My children’s all time favorite is yellow cake with penuche frosting.  My middle son, Greg (29) still begs me to bake this for him when he and his wife are visiting from St. Louis, and of course, I do. 

Gold Cake

2-1/2 cups cake flour                                                           ½ cup shortening

1-1/2 cups sugar                                                                   1 cup milk                             

3 tsp. baking powder                                                           1-1/2 tsp. vanilla

1 tsp. salt                                                                               2 eggs

Heat oven to 350 deg.  Grease and flour 2-9” round layer pans.  Measure all ingredients into large mixer bowl.  Blend ½ minute on low speed.  Beat 3 minutes on high speed.  Pour into pans. 

Bake 30-35 minutes or until they test done.  Cool before frosting.

Penuche Frosting

½ cup butter                                                                         ¼ cup milk

1 cup brown sugar (packed)                                               2 cups powdered sugar

Melt butter in saucepan.  Stir in brown sugar.  Heat to boiling, stirring constantly.  Boil and stir over low heat for 2 minutes.  Stir in milk; heat to boiling.  Remove from heat and cool to lukewarm. 

Gradually stir in powdered sugar.  Place pan of frosting in bowl of ice and water; beat until of spreading consistency. 

Shortcut:  You can use Duncan Hines Classic Yellow Cake—almost as good.

A classic cake to make for any event, it’s really old-fashioned but delightful. 

Williamsburg Orange Cake

2 ¾ cups Cake Flour                                                            ¼ cup shortening

1 ½ cups sugar                                                                     3 eggs

1 ½ tsp. soda                                                                        1 ½ tsp. vanilla

¾ tsp. salt                                                                              1 cup golden raisins, cut up

1 ½ cups buttermilk                                                             ½ cup finely chopped nuts

½ cup butter, softened                                                        1 Tbsp. Grated orange peel

Heat oven to 350 degrees.  Spray 2 9-inch or 3 8-inch round layer pans with vegetable spray.  Measure all ingredients into large mixer bowl.  Blend ½ minute on low speed.  Beat 3 minutes on high speed.  Pour into pans.

Butter Frosting for Williamsburg Orange Cake

½ cup soft butter                                                                 4-5 Tbsp. Orange-flavored liqueur or orange juice

4 1/2 cups powdered sugar                                                                1 Tbsp. Grated orange peel

Blend butter and sugar.  Stir in liqueur and orange peel; beat until smooth.

March is Daffodil Month.  What better way to say Happy Spring or Happy Easter than Daffodil Cake with Lemon Glaze.

Daffodil Cake

1 cup cake flour                                                                    ¼ tsp. salt

¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. Sugar                                                   6 egg yolks

12 egg whites (1-1/2 cups)                                                  1 ½ tsp. vanilla

1 ½ tsp. cream of tartar                                                        ½ tsp. almond extract

Heat oven to 375 degrees.  Stir together flour and ¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. Sugar; set aside. 

In large mixer bowl, beat egg whites, cream of tartar and salt until foamy.  Add remaining ¾ cup sugar, 2 Tbsp. At a time, beating on high speed until stiff peaks form.  In small mixer bowl, beat egg yolks about 5 minutes or until very thick and lemon colored.  Gently fold flavorings into meringue.

Sprinkle flour-sugar mixture, ¼ at a time, over meringue, folding in gently just until flour-sugar mixture disappears.  Pour half the batter into another bowl; gently fold in egg yolks.  Spoon yellow and white batters alternately into ungreased tube pan.  Gently cut through batters to swirl. 

Bake on bottom shelf of oven about 40 minutes or until top springs back when touched lightly with finger.  Invert pan on funnel; let hang until cake is completely cool.  Spread cake with lemon glaze.

Lemon Glaze

1 cup powdered sugar                                                         2 Tbsp. Milk

½ tsp. grated lemon peel                                                     1-drop yellow food color

1 tsp. lemon juice

Mix all together until smooth.

ASK LYNETTE

I’m looking for some easy but delicious and pretty sandwiches for a fancy tea.  Can you suggest some?

                                                                                                                Char Henn

                                                                                                                Red Wing

For a really easy and pretty presentation make old-fashioned ribbon sandwiches using the two fillings below:

Trim crust from 1 loaf white and 1 loaf whole wheat unsliced sandwich bread.  Cut each loaf horizontally into 6 slices.

For each ribbon loaf, spread each of 2 slices white and 1 slice whole wheat bread with ½ cup of the spreads below.  Assemble loaf, alternating white and whole-wheat slices; top with unspread whole-wheat slice.  Wrap and chill. 

Cut loaves into slices, about ½ inch thick; cut each slice in half.

Deviled Ham Spread

1 can (41/2 ounces) deviled ham                                       2 Tbsp. Sweet pickle relish, drained

¼ cup sour cream                                                                 1 Tbsp. Grated onion

2 Tbsp. Sweet pickle relish, drained                                  Dash Tabasco

Stir together all ingredients until well mixed.

Olive-Nut Spread

1 3-0z pkg. Cream cheese, softened                                  ¼ cup chopped pimiento-stuffed olives

½ cup finely chopped walnuts                                          2 Tbsp. Milk

Stir together all ingredients until well mixed.

I see mangoes in the stores more frequently than in the past and I wondered if you have any good recipes for mangoes.

                                                                                Judy Zerby

                                                                                Fridley, Minnesota

A great question since these tropical fruits are the single best fruit source of cancer-fighting carotenoids and contain as much Vitamin C as an orange; also rich in iron and Vitamin E and packed with fiber.  A super food in every way. 

Orange-Mango Smoothie

½ cup whole milk                                                 1 cup crushed ice

1 cup cubed fresh mango                                                   1-tsp. honey

1 banana                                                                                                2 slices sweet orange, for garnish

½ cup. Freshly squeezed orange juice

In blender, combine milk, mango, banana, juice, ice and honey; blend until smooth.  Pour into 2 tall glasses and garnish each with an orange slice.

Mango Salsa

3 mangoes, peeled, seeded and chopped                        2 Tbsp. Lime juice

1 Tbsp. Minced jalapeno peppers                                     1 to 2 dashes Tabasco       

¾ cup chopped green onion                                              2 Tbsp. Fresh cilantro, chopped

Combine all ingredients in bowl; mix well.  Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 12-24 hours.  (Salsa will keep 5 days in refrigerator)  This is very good with broiled fish.