More Thoughts on Thanksgiving

Almost everyone agrees that the traditional Thanksgiving meal includes turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes and gravy, cranberries, sweet potatoes, green beans and pumpkin pie. For most it would be unthinkable to change the turkey or the pumpkin pie, but the sides are less untouchable.


Our American Thanksgiving table, best illustrated by Norman Rockwell, conjures up the memories of a groaning board—the more dishes and sides, the better. I remember Grandma’s rendition of the festive dinner: two meats—turkey and goose or duck with their stuffing, perhaps a ham, three or four vegetables, two types of rolls, myriad pickles, olives, “relishes”, sweet potatoes two ways (the gooey, marshmallow-topped version and plain, mashed sweet potatoes with a large square of butter in the center—oozing as it melted—and topped with a sprinkle of nutmeg) several pies: pumpkin, pecan, mincemeat and apple.

I think many of us have cut back on this delicious excess; but, after all, it is Thanksgiving so a few extras are in order. I really like to try new recipes for sides. That way, the traditionalists have all of their favorites but I can try a new recipe or two. Some of our “regulars” were once experiments.

Brussels sprouts have become very popular in recent years. I can remember when they were second only to spinach as the “yucky” vegetable. I’m not sure if it has to do with people learning to cook them better (not boiled until they are gray and cabbage-y) or if it is due to availability of a better product. Here is one of my favorite ways to fix them:

Brussels sprouts with Hazelnuts and Thyme

1 cup toasted hazelnuts
1 Tbsp salt
1 Tbsp olive oil
4 pounds fresh Brussels sprouts, ends trimmed (can use frozen Brussels sprouts)
1 ½ sticks butter
2 ½ Tbsp chopped fresh thyme or 2 tsp. dried
Salt and pepper

To toast hazelnuts: Place nuts on a cookie sheet with sides and toast at 325 degrees until brown, about 15 minutes. Wrap warm nuts in a dish towel and rub together to loosen skins. Unwrap and cool. Finely chop.

Bring large pot of water to boil. Add salt and oil. Add Brussels sprouts and boil uncovered until bright green and crisp-tender, about 10 minutes. Drain. Transfer to bowl of cold water. Drain thoroughly and cool. Melt butter in large skillet over high heat until golden. Add Brussels sprouts and thyme and stir until heated through. Season with salt and pepper. Add hazelnuts and toss gently. Serve at once. (Serves 12).

I am a great fan of sweet potatoes, but it seems that not everyone is. The newest information on the nutritional value of sweet potatoes makes them an especially good choice for Thanksgiving. Several of my guests—mainly children— really will not try them, even with the ubiquitous marshmallow topping. When I came up with these wonderful rolls, no one even knew they were made with sweet potatoes and they have become a big hit, either at Thanksgiving dinner or the next morning with the breakfast variation.

1 Tbsp. plus ¾ tsp dry yeast
¼ cup warm water
1 cup sweet potato puree
1/3 cup dry milk solids
1 cup warm water
2/3 cup sugar
2 ½ Tbsp. canola oil
2 tsp. salt
5 ½ cups (about) all purpose flour
4 Tbsp. butter, melted

Sprinkle yeast over warm water in custard cup; stir to dissolve. Mix sweet potatoes, dry milk dissolved in 1 cup warm water, sugar, oil and salt in heavy-duty mixer fitted with dough hook. Blend in yeast mixture. Gradually beat in enough flour 1 cup at a time to form stiff dough. (Dough can be mixed by hand.) Continue beating until dough forms ball. Lightly oil large bowl. Add dough, turning to coat. Cover bowl with kitchen towel. Let dough rise in warm area until doubled, about 1 ½ hours. Lightly grease 2 large cookie sheets or 2 10-inch round baking pans. Punch dough down. Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface. Divide dough into 36 pieces. Let rest under towel for 10 minutes. Roll each dough piece into smooth ball. Place 1 ball in center of each prepared pan. Place 17 balls in concentric circles with sides just touching. Cover with towels and let rise in warm place until doubled, 45 minutes. Brush rolls lightly with 2 Tbsp. butter. Bake until rolls are golden brown in 350 degree oven, about 20-25 minutes. Brush with remaining melted butter. Serve warm.

Breakfast variation: Do not brush rolls with butter after they are baked. Let cool slightly and frost with maple frosting made with 1 ½ cups powdered sugar, 1 Tbsp. melted and cooled butter, 1 tsp. maple syrup and ¼ tsp. maple extract. Mix until of spreading consistency, adding drops of hot water if necessary. Spread on warm rolls.