Farmer's Market in August

“When the hills are green with spring, we think nothing can be more pleasant and satisfying, but now comes the time of ripening. The hills are brooding beneath the summer sun; most of the wild blossoms have come and gone. The wild fruit are in many stages of ripening…”—Roy Webster, Under a Buttermilk Moon: A Country Memoir.

There is something about the last week in August that fills me with the youthful anticipation of the new school year and at the same time the reluctance to let go of the freedom of summer. Everywhere there is the harbinger of change. In August, the light begins to wane, a golden haze covers the once-green fields and intense daytime heat usually succumbs to the whisper of cool nights forecasting the new season to come.

Now, too begins the season of the continual harvest. Tomatoes and corn, summer squash and cucumbers and peppers and eggplant and tomatoes and corn and corn and tomatoes. Just when you think it’s too hot to cook, you have your dinner at hand—sweet corn slathered with butter and sliced tomatoes. I have never tired of either.

The farmer’s market is the place to pick up your dinner daily—perhaps grill a chicken or steak if you have serious meat eaters in your family—but there is such a variety of vegetables that are so fresh and delicious that it is hard to go wrong. But for me, the meal is just fine with corn and tomatoes—and perhaps some really good homemade bread to wrap, buttered, around the hot ear of corn and—voila—your corn is buttered!

My Dad has a great weakness for corn fritters, which, oddly, my mother didn’t care for. As great a cook as she was, she had to be cajoled to make the corn fritters that Daddy loved. So last week, I took some of the delicious corn sold locally at the farmer’s market and trekked up to Edina to make my Dad some fritters. They were totally delicious! If you have never made them, do try, but be sure to follow these directions precisely.

Quoting from the cookbook where I found the recipe, “Despite the confusing but traditional name, these “corn fritters” are actually flour pancakes. Unlike many cakes, which tend to be associated with cold weather, they are a summer treat, at their peak in flavor when made with corn right out of the garden. As Marion Harland said about an earlier version in Common Sense in the Household (1871), ‘Eaten at dinner or breakfast, these always meet with a cordial welcome.’ At either meal, we like them with a side of another late summer favorite, slices of red-ripe tomatoes.” –A Real American Breakfast by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison.

Fresh Corn Fritters

Kernels and scrapings from 3 ears fresh sweet corn (about 2 cups)
2 large eggs
2 Tbsp. milk or half and half
1 and one-half Tbsp. butter, melted
3 Tbsp flour
1 scant Tbsp. sugar
Three-fourths tsp. salt
One-half tsp. baking powder
Vegetable oil and Bacon drippings
Softened butter

One of the old secrets to success with this and other fresh corn dishes comes from the way you carve the kernels from the cob. With an ear of corn standing upright, slide a medium knife down the ear, slicing off the top half of the kernels. Rotate the ear and repeat the motion until you’ve given the entire ear a trim. Turn the knife over on its dull top side and scrape down the ear again, pressing against the cob to release the thick, custardy milk. Use everything in the recipe except the scalped cob.

Mix the corn kernels and scrapings with the eggs, milk and melted butter in a medium bowl. Sprinkle in the flour, sugar, salt and baking powder and mix just until combined. Warm a griddle or a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Pour a thin film of oil onto the griddle. Add one-half to one teaspoon of bacon drippings to the oil. Pour or spoon out the batter onto the hot griddle, where it should sizzle and hiss. About 2 Tbsp. of batter will make a 3-inch cake. (Anything much larger tends to tear.) Make as many cakes as you can fit without crowding. Cook the pancakes until their top surface is covered with tiny bubbles but before all the bubbles pop, about 2 minutes. Flip the pancakes and cook until the second side is golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Repeat with the remaining batter, adding to the griddle as needed a bit more oil and bacon drippings. Serve immediately with softened butter.

Variation: Add 3 to 4 slices crumbled crisp bacon and one-fourth pound grated sharp Cheddar (about 1 cup) to the batter with the corn kernels. Serve with Spiced Honey or Maple Butter: Mix one-fourth pound of softened butter with 3 Tbsp. honey or maple syrup. Add one-fourth tsp. freshly grated nutmeg, anise, cinnamon, or a combination and a pinch of cloves or allspice.