Hiawatha Valley Loop Around Lake Pepin

Our recent hundred-mile garage sale made me realize again how beautiful the Hiawatha Valley loop around Lake Pepin is and how much fun it is to drive. Garage saleing is one way to do it; another is food. And, you guessed it, that is my preference. Spring, summer, autumn, winter—it really doesn’t matter for beauty and fun. Unfortunately, some of the best eating places aren’t open in winter months, but you can still do a great food circle.

If your fancy turns to picnics, a great place to start is at Randy’s in Red Wing or Hager Heights drive-in across the river. Grab a bucket of chicken and a couple of sides and head down the Wisconsin side of ‘Ole Miss. Stop at any of the scenic overviews or roadside parks—or at one of the lovely city parks in the small towns along the way. Spend time reading the historic plaques with the stories of this beautiful valley. Meandering will take time and get you all set for a cheap and delicious ice cream cone in Nelson at the Nelson Cheese store.

At Nelson, cross to Wabasha and start back up the other side. While not quite as scenic, it has its own beauty. Reads Landing has some great vantage points and observation decks to view river wildlife, as well as a picnic spot or two. Lake City has a great Marina and several parks along Lake Pepin. By the time you hit Lake City, you should be ready to hit the Chickadee Cottage Tea Room for a teatime snack. The home-made baked goods at this restaurant can’t be beat in the Valley.

Now if you’re not the picnicking type, or are just in the mood for restaurant food, the selection is endless. The Nortons is open all year and is now in downtown Red Wing.

Ole’s bar in Maiden Rock might be your next stop if you’re thirsty and want to observe the many bikers who ride the Great River Road and are regulars here. Ole’s is a colorful and often noisy bar and eatery with a deck in summer for river viewing.

Stockholm boasts a great many quaint and interesting little shops, from antiques and gifts to food products, Amish quilts and other stuff. It has two eateries that I know of, and my favorite is Bogus Creek café. Just the name gets me. They have outdoor seating in a very enchanting garden courtyard (with a little creek? running through it) and great food—especially bakery items. A truly pleasant experience on a lovely day. But the inside café, though small, is cozy in inclement weather. The Stockholm Pie Company is a must stop for dessert.

Pepin, Wisconsin is the home of the well-known Harbor View Café. This restaurant has been famous for its fine foods for a great many years and we have guests at our inn in Red Wing who made the trip especially to dine there. It was recently purchased by some people who had worked there under the original owners and, although I haven’t eaten there since this switch was made, I have heard that it has been a seamless transition and its reputation is intact.

I already mentioned the Nelson Cheese store. It used to be a factory where you could watch them making cheese curds—but they recently remodeled and moved their production facility elsewhere. Still, it is a great deli—has a lovely sit-down eating area in the new wine bar. Pick up some specialty Wisconsin cheese for your next picnic.

On the Minnesota side, there is another old and venerable eating establishment. The Anderson House Hotel Dining Room. In my cookbook collection I have four different cookbooks from The Anderson House—all wonderful. There was a time when this hotel served the finest food along the Northern Mississippi. Then a time when it fell from grace. The building remians but the restaurant closed in 2009.

I saved the best ‘till last. The Chickadee Cottage Teahouse in Lake City is my personal favorite for lunch. All of the food is fresh, innovative (yet traditional), beautifully presented and not too expensive. Actually, it’s really a bargain. The interior is, indeed, a cottage—full of dolls, tea things, beautiful cards and other gift items. A lovely porch is a treat, if you are seated there, and two other dining areas are very tastefully decorated with winsome and personal items. But the food! Everything I have tried has been superb.

I never tire of this drive—it’s always fresh and surprising. The food is too—and I hope to


discover a new great place to eat next time out.